Cordovado

It takes just 15 minutes to drive from Portogruaro to Cordovado, a municipality in Friuli Venezia Giulia where you can still see the remains of the old medieval town and its mighty walls.

The town was given to the bishop of Concordia Sagittaria in order to defend a branch of the Tagliamento river that has now dried up. The name “Cordovado” comes from the Latin words “Curtis” and “Vadum”, which refer to a court near a ford across the Tagliamento river.

The little town has been officially listed among the most beautiful villages in Italy by the “Borghi Più Belli d’Italia” association. Still today, you can admire its old walls, complete with ramparts, a moat and two entrance towers, one of which has a drawbridge. When you visit this little town, you’ll soon find yourself picturing atmospheric historical scenes, with rich lords and ladies, merchants, soldiers and artisans.

The bishop of the diocese of Concordia Sagittaria was the predominant force in Cordovado in the early days, but in 1420 AD it came under the control of the Republic of Venice and lost its defensive, military and ecclesiastical role.

The first Shrine to the Virgin Mary in the Diocese was built here in 1592 after a Marian apparition and it became a famous destination for numerous pilgrims. It’s a Baroque gem that can still be seen today.

The historic centre of the town in the Province of Pordenone is the most interesting part to visit. History is intertwined with the fragrances and colours of the countryside and the peaceful horizons of writer Ippolito Nievo’s fields.

You can enter the Medieval Castle through one of the two gate towers that are still standing, one of which has a drawbridge you can cross. It’s also fascinating to walk around the outside of the walls, admiring the moat and the south-west ramparts. It’s a great way to take stunning photos of a truly picturesque place.

Once you’ve gone through the entrance, you’ll find a large courtyard with a number of buildings looking over it:

• The Church of San Girolamo – standing right next to the northern gate of the fortified town.

• Palazzo Freschi/Piccolomini – built in the late 17^th century by the noble Attimis family, its façade and floor plan both reflect the classic style of Venetian architecture. As well as a number of age-old trees, its walled grounds contain Damask rose bushes arranged to form a sun-shaped maze.

• Palazzo Bozza/Marrubini – used for staff housing and as a service building, this refined construction dates back to the 15^th century. It features porticoes, arches and a host of frescoes.

• Palazzo Agricola – the large arches at the front of this Renaissance building provide access to the ground floor. Its grounds and garden stretch out behind it. You can stop for a refreshing break at the café on the ground floor.

• Outside the medieval castle, just past the drawbridge of the southern tower, you’ll find the Romano-Gothic style Church of Sant’Andrea, which was opened in 1966. It contains various pieces of contemporary art by the Veronese artist Pino Casarini, including paintings, glass and works of plastic art.

• At the entrance to the North Tower is a First World War memorial to remember those who fell during the conflict and serve as a warning to young people today.

• A short walk of a few hundred metres will take you to the complex containing the Town Hall. Nearby stands the Sanctuary of the Madonna delle Grazie, which was built in 1603 after an appearance of the Virgin Mary. The building is adorned with stucco work, bas-reliefs, statues, paintings and frescoes.

Cordovado’s historic and artistic heritage is enriched by a number of churches. The ones that you can visit in the town’s historic centre are as follows:

• The Church of Sant’Andrea (also known as the Old Cathedral) has been destroyed and rebuilt a number of times. Inside, octagonal pillars hold up large arches and trusses support the wooden roof. The 16^th century frescoes in the main chapel are attributed to Gianfrancesco da Tolmezzo. The bell tower stands on the northern side.

• The octagonal Sanctuary of the Madonna delle Grazie was opened on 1 May 1603. Following the appearance of the Virgin Mary, numerous pilgrims travelled to it. The building is adorned with stucco work, bas-reliefs, statues, paintings and frescoes. Giovanni Grassi made the high altar out of marble.

• The oratory of Santa Caterina has frescoes on its southern and northern walls that are attributed to pupils of Tommaso da Modena from Veneto and Friuli, as well as other local artists. There’s an interesting altarpiece with a Madonna and Child.

• Standing right next to the northern gate of the old town, the church of San Girolamo in Castello is now private property. It has a single nave, with visible brickwork. There are barrel tiles on the sloping roof, which is supported by trusses. There’s a marble altar in the apse, with an 18^th century altarpiece. On one wall is a fresco showing the Virgin Mary on a throne, between a female saint and Saint James the Great.